| Marriage Was My Worst Mistake |
| Type: |
Rock-Classic Aid |
| Difficulty: |
5.7, A3 |
| Time Required: |
Most of a day |
| Summit Elevation: |
5,112 ft. |
|
Approach:
Take the NorthEast Buttress approach and sramble through the bushes. This route follows the old alluring crack just right of DUMP WATT
Route Description:
The route was first done in July, 1989 by Frank Sanders, solo.
Pitch 1.(140ft, 5.7, A2) -Courtship Pitch- Scramble in as close as you can get. With both effort and tact, overcome the awkward "Bulge-of-First-Introduction". Once over this tricky part you can nail and jam that crack anyway that you want to and arrive, all smiles, at the "Wedding Bells Belay". Hanging stance, 3 bolts.
Pitch 2. (140ft, A3) -Marriage Pitch- Although the first bit is fun, easy and will go clean (Honeymoon Section), after that you can quickly forget that you have nuts. As the crack flares, banging standard angles becomes ineffective. Any nailing is awkward, as the crack shrivels. Persistance through deteriorating conditions Brings you to the "Divorce Stance Belay". 3 bolts.
Finish. A look ahead tells you that continuing with this loose crack could cost you your Life. Rap your way out of this one and find another.....
Essential Gear:
Standard Aid Rack
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