| California Dreaming |
| Type: |
Rock-Classic Stem |
| Difficulty: |
5.11b |
| Time Required: |
Half a day |
| Summit Elevation: |
5,112 ft. |
|
Approach:
Same as ONE WAY SUNSET. The route takes the crack/corner above BUSTER CATTLEFIELD. Climb either the 1st pitch of ONE WAY SUNSET or CATTLEFIELD and belay at their common anchor bolts.
Route Description:
This route was first climbed by Frank Sanders and Liana Kirk in July, 1989. This route is a 5-Star Classic Stem!! As the Best Protected, hard stemming climb on this rock, it should be on your Devils Tower Itinerary!!
Pitch 1.(120 ft, 5.11b) -The Stem- From the bolted belay, two face moves traverse you left to the corner above Buster Cattlefield. Climb this exquisite Dihedral with delicate moves that are well protected. The initial 50 ft is the crux stem and is protected by 5 well placed bolts. The rest of the pitch yields to more conventional style and protection. Climb to the hanging belay at the big bolt anchor.
Finish. Rap, Rap, Rap....
Essential Gear:
Quickdraws for the bolts and small nuts and TCU's up to #1 Friend size. Sew it up!!
|
