
| Butterfingers |
| Type: |
Rock-Classic Aid |
| Difficulty: |
C2+.5.8 |
| Time Required: |
Most a day |
| Summit Elevation: |
5,112 ft. |
|
Approach:
Approach over the South West Shoulder. This route is located 4 cracks right of Direct Southwest and 1 crack left of Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic. Scramble as high as you can to set a belay.
Route Description:
This route was first climbed by Steve Gardiner and Mark Brackin in the heat of July 15, 1979. It was at a time when establishing a new route on Devils Tower, still meant something.This route represents a " Passing of The Torch". A fine aid line, at that time, and a fine line even now.
Pitch 1. (C2+, 100ft.) Aid the thin corner on small stoppers and RP's to a hanging belay. Don't go too far, as a secure belay is hard to establish up higher.
Pitch 2. (C2+,165 ft.) Continue aiding as the crack widens. It is best to set the belay as high as possible. Turn the roofs on their right. Above is a fine ledge and a great spot for an anchor.
Pitch 3. (5.8, 165 ft.) Climb this Classic"Top-of -Devils -Tower-Chimney" to its end at the summit. Take many large pieces, slings to tie off natural chock stones and perhaps a hammer to set several "fixed" pins.
Finish. Head out to the lecture circuit, slide show tour and book signings. You've done a Classic mixed route on the Bold Face of Devils Tower.
Essential Gear:
Many large pieces for the exit chimney and many small nuts for the lower section. The route has not been tried " free", so a few pitons and a hammer in the bag might help you through the thin or flaring sections, and could assist you in setting the 1st belay.

|